Vitamin C and Your Skin — Bawan Sisters

Hope every one is having a great Easter weekend!

In addition to Easter, today is National Vitamin C day! I thought I would share a bit about Vitamin C, its skincare benefits and some of my preferred Vitamin C skincare products. SkinCeuticals recently launched a new Vitamin C serum and had a zoom launch where they shared some great skincare tips! So I will share a few of those facts with you as well.

WHAT IS VITAMIN C

Vitamin C is an ingredient that should be part of everyone’s skincare routine—regardless of age or skin type. Vitamin C is an essential nutrient used for the growth and repair of tissues in all parts of the body, including the skin, however we cannot produce it on our own.Vitamin C falls under the antioxidant category of skincare.

As I learnt from the SkinCeuticals Vitamin C zoom session there are many forms of Vitamin C and L-ascorbic acid is the pure form. This is the most biologically active and well-studied form of vitamin C. Some skincare may use a not pure form of Vitamin C, which may help keep the Vitamin C more stable. When a not pure form of Vitamin C comes in contact with the skin, it releases the pure vitamin C onto the skin. With this conversion, not 100% of the Vitamin C in the product is converted into the active form. For example if the product contains 10% of one of these not pure forms, they might only release 3% of pure vitamin C on the skin.

BENEFITS FOR SKIN

Vitamin C has many benefits, which can be divided into three broad categories.

· Protection against environmental stressors: As an antioxidant one of vitamin C’s main functions is protecting the skin. Normal cellular processes as well as environmental exposures (ultraviolet light and pollution) create free radicals in the skin. Free radicals damage the dermis of the skin and alter DNA, the moisture barrier, skin texture, colour, and cell functioning. This promotes skin dullness, wrinkles, and even cancers. Vitamin C helps to protect the skin from free radicals improving visible signs of aging.

· Promotes collagen production: Vitamin C also plays an important role in collagen formation. Collagen gives our skin support and structure. With age our collagen starts to break down. This is why we begin to notice wrinkles and lines. Vitamin C is a necessary substance for building collagen. Without it, collagen formation stops.

· Lightens brown spots: Vitamin C blocks the pathway of pigment (melanin) synthesis therefore it is helpful in lightening unwanted brown spots and decreasing brown discolouration.

WHO SHOULD USE IT

Vitamin C is not recommended for those with extremely sensitive skin.

Traditionally Vitamin C products can be oily so they can also be problematic for those with oily skin. However if you fall into this category you are in luck! SkinCeuticals just launched a new Vitamin C serum called Silymarin CF. This is an oil free Vitamin C serum that is formulated specifically for oily and blemish prone skin types. This formula combines 0.5% silymarin (milk thistle extract), 15% l-ascorbic acid, 0.5% ferulic acid and 0.5% salicylic acid. The reason Silymarin work well for oily skin is it targets lipid oxidation. Lipid oxidation happens when UV rays shine on excess sebum (oil), and is a form of free radical damage. Antioxidants reduce free radical damage by stabilizing unstable molecules that destroy the structures of our skin. Silymarin specifically is more effective on lipid oxidation than other antioxidants.

HOW OFTEN CAN YOU USE IT

Vitamin C serums can be used daily. According to SkinCeuticals Vitamin C should always be used prior to sun exposure and together with a sunscreen for the best protection.

WHAT OTHER PRODUCTS TO USE IT WITH

Vitamin C works well with complementing antioxidants like, vitamin E and ferulic acid, which will boost the efficacy and stability of the molecule.

The SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic Vitamin C (my holy grail Vitamin C) has 15% pure vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), 1% vitamin E (alpha tocopherol) and 0.5% ferulic acid. If you read my sunscreen blog post you may remember my sunscreen Q & A with one of my friends Dr. Kathleen Fraser , a board-certified medical dermatologist working in Calgary Alberta. I asked her which her favourite Vitamin C is and it is the SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic. Given the combination of ingredients it is no surprise this is such a popular product!

When layering Vitamin C with other products according to SkinCeuticals antioxidants are applied first to clean, dry skin. You can layer any other actives, like AHA/BHA, on top. The only caution is retinol. You want to apply your antioxidant in the morning and retinol at night to limit sensitivity and get the maximum benefits from both these products.

MY PREFERRED VITAMIN C

For a few years not I have been using SkinCeuticals Vitamin C.

I am currently trying out the SkinCeuticals Silymarin CF Vitamin C. I have combination skin leaning more to dry. With warmer weather I occasionally get some acne. Although this Vitamin C is not targeted for my skin type I wanted to give it a try.

You do not have to stick with on Vitamin C year round! According to SkinCeuticals you can choose which one to use on which day. Most people like using C E Ferulic in the winter when the skin is drier, and Silymarin CF or Phloretin CF in the summer when the skin is oilier. Phloretin CF, and Silymarin CF are very lightweight like water while C E Ferulic has a hydrating, thicker texture. Use 4-5 drops for the face / neck area in the morning only. Alternatively, you can apply C E Ferulic one day, and Phloretin CF the next.

SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic Vitamin C is not recommended for oily skin because there is a very high amount of Vitamin E in the formula, 1%. If you have oily skin, this amount of vitamin E can lead to breakouts.