Sunny Days and Sunscreens

In recent years people have been starting to realize the importance of good sun protection. If I ask any of my friends who are Dermatologists they always say that sunscreen is the most important step in your skincare routine. Like many skincare product there are different forms of sun protection and it can be confusing to navigate through. As we head into spring I thought I would do a dedicated post on sun protection. I also will also do a quick Q & A about sun protection with one of my friends Dr. Kathleen Fraser , a board-certified medical dermatologist working in Calgary Alberta (please skip to the end of the post for more about Dr. Fraser).

Let’s start with some basics! The sun emits potentially harmful ultraviolet (UV) rays and it is important to protect your skin from them. There are other artificial sources of UV rays such as lasers, black lights, and tanning beds however sunlight is the number one source of UV radiation. UV rays can lead to some forms of skin cancer. Some ways to avoid exposure to UV rays includes wearing sun protective clothing (hats, sunglasses) and avoiding the sun as best as you can. In addition adding a product containing SPF will help in achieving sun safety and maintaining healthy skin.

According to skincancer.org there are two types of UV light which are proven to contribute to the risk of skin cancer. UVA is associated with skin aging while UVB is associated with skin burning. While UVA and UVB rays may differ in how they affect the skin they both do harm. Unprotected exposure to UVA and UVB damages the DNA in skin cells which can lead to skin cancer. Something to keep in mind is that damage from UV exposure is cumulative. This means that your risk for skin cancer increases over time. While your body can repair some of the DNA damage in skin cells, it can’t repair all of it. The unrepaired damage builds up over time and that can lead to cancer. Therefore it is essential to start your skin protection from a young age.

Sun Protection Factor (SPF) is a scientific measure of how long a sunscreen will protect you from specifically UVB rays. So for example and SPF of 30 means it takes 30 times longer to burn your skin with a sunscreen on than it does without sunscreen applied. So what about UVA rays? A broad-Spectrum SPF is given to a sunscreen formula to describe its UVB and UVA protection level. SPF not labeled as broad-spectrum will protect only from UVB rays.

There are two broad categories of sunscreens based on how they protect the skin: physical and chemical sunscreens. A physical sunscreen works by blocking out the sun's rays with an opaque coating on the skin. A chemical sunscreen causes a chemical reaction where the UV rays are absorbed and changed into another type of energy and then released from the skin.

Physical sunscreens contain mineral ingredients such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. These ingredients work by sitting on top of the skin to block and scatter UV rays away from the skin before they can penetrate the skin. Physical sunscreens offer protection against both UVA and UVB rays and protect from the sun as soon as they are applied. Physical sunscreens are also sometimes called mineral sunscreens.

Chemical sunscreens contain organic (carbon-based) compounds such as avobenzone that function to absorb UV rays before they can damage the skin. These compounds used create a chemical reaction and work by changing UV rays into heat and this heat is then released from the skin. Chemical sunscreens tend to be thinner and spread more easily on the skin making them more wearable for daily use. Chemical sunscreens used to have a bad reputation for containing oxybenzone. This compound was linked to allergies, hormone (estrogen) disruption and cell damage however there are now formulas that are free of this ingredient and remain just as effective without it.

Now, time for a sun protection Q & A with Dr. Fraser.

How much sunscreen should I use and how often should I apply it?

Dr. Fraser: This is a great question, as the normal person only applies 20-50% as much sunscreen as is recommended. The average adult needs to apply 2-3 tablespoons (30-45ml) of sunscreen for whole body protection. Sunscreen should generally be re-applied every 2 hours, and every time you go in water, or get sweaty.

Is there a minimum SPF value you recommend?

Dr. Fraser: I always recommend an SPF of 30 or higher. Since you generally need to reapply every 2 hours anyways, SPF 30 is sufficient for most adults. For example, if you typically burn in 5 minutes of sun, SPF 30 will give you 30 times that (so 150 minutes of protection), at which time you need to reapply anyways.

Do you have a preference between a physical or chemical sunscreens?

Dr. Fraser: Physical sunscreens are slightly preferred, as they protect against UVA, UVB and visible light. However, these can sometimes leave a white sheen on the skin, so you need to find one that works for you. If you want to use a chemical sunscreen, look for one labelled “broad spectrum”, which protects against UVA and UVB rays. Ultimately, the best sunscreen for you is the one you like, and are going to use.

Are certain types of sunscreens better for certain skin types (eg. dry, oily, acne prone)?

Dr. Fraser: I like a physical sunscreen for people who are acne prone, as certain sunscreen ingredients in chemical sunscreens can exacerbate acne. My current favourite physical is the Vivier Triple Protection Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 30, which has both zinc and titanium dioxide.

For dry skin, you can use a sunscreen with a moisturizer built in, such as the SkinMedica Total Defense and Repair line (available in SPF 34 with or without tint, and SPF 50).

For oily skin, I really like the powder sunscreens which are easy to apply over make-up, such as the ZO Sunscreen + Powder Broad-Spectrum SPF 40.

I love using spray sunscreen especially for my body. What are your thoughts on these?

Dr. Fraser: It is hard to beat the easy convenience of a spray sunscreen, especially when it comes to reapplication. In terms of down sides, these sunscreens do not achieve the thickness that was used to determine the SPF (2mg/cm2). I generally prefer to use a lotion sunscreen, because you can layer it on more thickly. However, again, the best sunscreen is the one you will use, so if using spray means you will reapply every 2 hours, then go for it!

What is your favorite sunscreen?

Dr. Fraser: My favourite is the Skin Medica Total Defense and Repair SPF 34 tinted sunscreen, because it has ingredients that help to moisturize and restore the skin barrier, in addition to acting as a good sunscreen with a nice tint for everyday use.

I will end this post with a few thoughts on two new sunscreens I tried. With my darker skin tone I typically reach for a chemical sunscreen since they are easier to blend, layer well with makeup and do not leave a white cast. My current go to sunscreen is the Chantecaille Ultra Sun Protection Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 45 Primer. If you are curious about the Chantecaille sunscreen please read my morning skincare routine post. After my Q&A with Dr. Fraser I wanted to try out a physical sunscreen and try to find one that would work for me. Here are my thoughts on two new to me sunscreens.

SkinMedica Total Defense + Repair SPF 34 Tinted

This product is a blend of chemical sunscreen ingredients, plus 3.5% titanium dioxide and 8% zinc oxide helps offer superior protection against harmful UVA and UVB rays. In addition to sun protection this sunscreen contains ingredients which help to rejuvenate the complexion with a skin-fortifying antioxidant complex.
Pro:
- I love that the packaging has a pump dispenser.
- The product's tint helps offset the white cast from the zinc oxide. On my skin tone I did not notice much of a white cast from the product. I wore this before I spent a day taking photos and I could not tell I had changed to a physical sunscreen. The last physical sunscreen I used was the one from Drunk Elephant which left a strong white residue that was evident in photos (big fail for me!). I am wearing the SkinMedica sunscreen in the above photo. I also included a photo below of the back of my hand with the first photo showing the product and the tint and the second photo showing how well it blends in.
- The light weight texture of the sunscreen hydrates and feels more like moisturizer than sunscreen.
- Aside from sun protection this product contains antioxidants all of which have at least some amount of research proving they help protect skin from environmental damage.
- Fragrance free.
Con:
- This product would work best for light to medium skin tones. Very fair skin tones may want to try the untinted version. Darker skin tones may notice a white tint.
- Not water resistant. The SPF 50 from the same brand is water resistant for up to 80 minutes.
Thoughts: For a physical sunscreen this worked well for me and I will continue to use this product.

ZO Skin Health Sunscreen + Powder Broad-Spectrum SPF 40

This product is powered by Triple-Spectrum Protection® and exclusive ZO® antioxidant technology to deliver superior skin defence with a hint of advanced colour pigments
Key Ingredients:
- Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide: Protects against UVA and UVB rays
- Fractionated melanin: Provides protection against blue light (HEV light) that is emitted from the sun and from electronic devices
- ZOX12® complex: Contains Vitamins A, C and E to help protect skin from free radical damage and IR-A rays
Pro: I have never tried a powder sunscreen before (in fact I never knew they existed) so when Dr. Fraser told me about them I was so curious to try it out.
- Easy to apply and a great way to to reapply sunscreen during the day (ideally sunscreen should be reapplied every 2 hours). I love how easily this layered over my makeup.
- If you get oily during the day this helps to absorb surface oils without feeling drying.
- If you do not wear makeup this is pigmented and can provide light buildable coverage.
- The formula leaves a subtle glow to the skin.
Con:
- This comes in 3 shades. I took the medium shade. I initially noticed a slight white cast but with blending this sheered out. I am not sure how this would work for very dark skin tones.
Thoughts: Although I still prefer a liquid sunscreen in my skincare routine I love this for re-application of sunscreen during the day especially over makeup. I keep this in my purse and use as needed.